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Modernization of Lépi: repositioning a heritage fabric in Cameroonian fashion


Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology
Hermann Tchonang Ndogmo,<sup>1</sup> Paul Nestor Djomou djonga,<sup>2</sup> Constantino Nguivoum Thea,<sup>3</sup> Félicité Ndzagaï Bihina<sup>4</sup>

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Abstract

Lépi, the traditional fabric of the Sudano-Sahelian peoples—particularly in Cameroon and Guinea—is undergoing a major transformation through its gradual integration into contemporary fashion. This article explores the technical, symbolic, and aesthetic characteristics of this artisanal textile, while offering a contextualized analysis of its current uses by African designers. Through a comparative and creative approach, it highlights the stylistic potential of Lépi in ready-to-wear fashion, haute couture, and accessories, drawing on recent research and field initiatives. The study also emphasizes the economic and cultural stakes involved in its revalorization: structuring local value chains, cultural diplomacy, and the development of creative industries. This work thus proposes a new textile grammar, where tradition and innovation meet to position Lépi within the future of African fashion design.

Keywords

Lépi, fashion design, heritage textile, contemporary African fashion

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