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Optimizing physical performance in climbing: specific strength training strategies across body regions


MOJ Sports Medicine
Edgard Kazzi, Lea Farhat, Zahi Andraos

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Abstract

Background: Climbing performance is determined by a complex interplay of technical skill, tactical decision-making, psychological factors, and physical capabilities. Among these, strength—particularly in the fingers, forearms, upper body, core, and lower body—plays a decisive role in a climber’s ability to execute difficult sequences and sustain effort over varied terrain.

Objective: This narrative review aims to synthesize recent scientific literature (2015–2025) and applied coaching knowledge to provide climbers and coaches with evidence-based, body-region-specific strength training guidelines. The goal is to make scientific insights accessible and actionable for athletes across climbing disciplines, including bouldering, sport climbing, and alpine routes.

Methods: Literature was retrieved from PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar using targeted search terms related to climbing, strength development, and periodization. Studies meeting inclusion criteria addressed physical strength or conditioning interventions in human climbers, were published in peer-reviewed journals from 2015 onward and were available in English. Findings were synthesized with expert coaching practices to ensure practical applicability.

Results: Across climbing disciplines, maximal and endurance finger strength emerged as the strongest performance predictors. Effective methods include hang board protocols for maximal force and endurance repeaters, weighted pull-ups for pulling strength, unilateral lower-body exercises for stability and drive, and core stabilization drills for movement control. Periodized training integrating climbing-specific and general strength work was consistently superior to unstructured programs.

Conclusion: Strength training tailored to the unique demands of climbing—targeting each major body area, applied progressively, and periodized over the training year—can significantly enhance performance while reducing injury risk. Translating scientific evidence into accessible guidelines empowers climbers to train more effectively and sustainably.

 

Keywords

climbing, strength training, finger strength, upper body, core stability, lower body, periodization, sport performance

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