Dye analysis from the little-known bastard hemp (Datisca cannabina L.) used in the dyeing of historical textiles and comparison of samples ıdentified in textile cultural heritage
- Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology
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Emine Torgan Güzel
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Abstract
The use of colors derived from natural dyes dates back to the dawn of humanity. Initially, people used mineral-based dyes before discovering dyes made from plants and animals to color their surroundings. This study focuses on the characteristics and dye components of bastard hemp (Datisca cannabina L.), a plant historically known for producing yellow dyes. It also presents the results of an analysis of silk fabric dyed with this plant. The study is significant as it compares the dye components obtained from the plant with those that remain after dyeing the silk. High-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) was employed for the dye analysis. Additionally, the color was measured using a CIEL*a*b* spectrophotometer, assessing both untreated silk fabric and silk that had been treated with an alum mordant before being dyed with bastard hemp. This approach allowed for the identification of visually detectable and numerically documented color differences. Moreover, the study provides comprehensive information on historical textile samples and modern works identified as having been dyed with this plant, along with comparative results. The study further reviews historical textile samples and contemporary research in which bastard hemp has been identified as a dye source, presenting comparative analytical results. By integrating chemical analysis, colorimetric evaluation, and historical evidence, this research offers useful information for textile conservators, restoration specialists, archaeometrists, conservation scientists, and traditional dyers. The findings contribute to a better understanding of the limited but significant historical use of bastard hemp as a yellow dye and support informed decision-making in the preservation and restoration of culturally significant textiles.
Keywords
Datisca cannabina, bastard hemp, natural dyeing, textile cultural heritage, dye analysis, colour measurement


